Ponte De Lima

The bus from Valancia dropped us off on an Avenue shaded by Eucalyptus. We went down the hill to the main part of Ponte de Lima, and quickly found a simple place for 25Euro a night, bathroom across the hall. The lady never did get our passport, and did not speak French, but it all worked out . This is a lovely little city, with the usual twisty narrow streets, fronting on the banks of the River Lima. We enjoyed the multiple whimsical statues depicting local folk stories instead of religious and political figures. A long 31 arched Roman bridge spans the river so you can stroll to the other side. The day we arrived there was an antique market along the river bank. Everything from silver spoons to used GI Joe dolls. We bought some sausage and bread and had a picnic watching the crowds negoiate. Later we walked into a **** Hotel and ordered a couple beers at the bar so we could sit and watch the finish of Tour de France. We are learning to nurse our drinks for a long time, just like the natives.
That night we had dinner at Convento do Gula, the little resturant below our pensao. Humble place, but in line for the best dinner yet in Portugal, and that says a lot. We had duck cooked in a puff pastry, and carrots dosed with sorrel ( I think) and cabbage that was spiced and steamed to that perfect place between cooked and crunch. For the first time, we gave in and ordered dessert. Creme Brulee ( ? Leite Caramel ) which was crusted and dusted with a touch of lemon. We were floored, especially when we met the chef who was a very young woman. She didn´t speak any English so we couldn´t find out more about her, but we vowed to return the following night.
The next day we finally found out what those odd yellow arrows were on the pavement in Porto. They are the path markers for people walking the Portuguese pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella in Spain. So we started walking also. Equipped with lunch, water, hiking poles and sunhats, we hiked for 5 hours covering about 17Km. The path goes thru villages, backyards, stream side paths, vineyards, fields of corn, beer gardens, church parking lots. We only saw one other person. CT commented that she was surprised we didn´t see people coming the opposite way on the path. SC pointed out that CT was missing the point. Opps. But we felt a little bit spiritual anyway.I think it is forbidden for dogs to harass the pilgrims, so we felt very protected.

That night, felt like we had really earned our meal of the local speciality, Arroz de Sorrabulho, which is various pork sausages and parts, served with rice in a rich blood gravy. It was incredible ( except for the tripe, which was a bit too gamey).

CT developed a weird rash on her legs. Let us think, have we eaten anything odd or slept in cheap beds or rummaged around in unusal riverside plants ? Hah ! We just bought a small tube of cortisone cream in the pharmacy which we know will cure all.

Next we want to go to Soaja in the mountains, but the bus only runs two days a week, so we stayed in Ponte De Lima for another day. It looked like rain, but we rented bikes anyway, and rode for several hours on a beautiful path by the River Lima.Also we walked thru a competitive garden exhibit. A dozen gardeners each design and plant a plot and everyone who walks through it gets to vote on their favorite. The losers get ploughed up in October, while the winner gets to stay in the ground for the next summer. Kind of like `Survivor` meets `PBS` meets` Top Chef`. Unique and enjoyable.

With help from the lady in the Turismo office we think we know how to get to Soaja tomorrow. It is actually located inside the Geres National Park and sounds pretty quaint. CT has been reading about it for a couple months and is convinced it will be worth the effort. SC knows he will miss some Tour d France stages, but he is willing so you probably won´t see more posts for a couple days.