Thursday, November 13, 2008

Hit the Andes

We started out from the Youth Hostel , joining a young couple from Delft, Netherlands to share a taxi to the trailhead about 20K from the city. The driver indicates that we should go thru the gate into a farmer´s pasture. We follow the trail throught that to a rickety suspended bridge over the Rio Blanco. One at a time ( CT first) we carefully cross, tight grasp on the rusted cables, stepping over the missing planks, gauging the swing of the bridge , the rushing glacier melt rivier below. Then we follow the trail markers ( lids off tin cans, painted yellow and red, nailed to trees) as we go up, up, up. The Dutch couple of course, surge ahead. She is a former speed skater. We try to keep up a steady pace as the trail goes steeply up the grade, somewhat hampered by slippery mud, results of the melt and recent rains. CT is VERY HAPPY to use her new trekking poles. We start at hiking at 10:30a.m. and arrived at Refugio Hielo Azul 7 hours later, tired , sweat drenched despite the cold breeze, but delighted to take off our packs.

Refugio Hielo Azul is staffed by 2 guys, and 1 cute four year old, resupplied by sporadic pack horsees. We quickly find out they brew beer there, and so we celebrate our trek by splitting a liter. This place looks like Roger´s original cabin, though larger. Located very close to snow covered peaks, can watch avalances roll down during the day across the narrow canyon. Rough hewn log structure , wood stove, fire going to heat water for the banos ( 6-8pm each night). For 30 peso you get a mattress in the big loft area, another 30 pesos buys dinner ( a hearty stew and homemade bread). The Dutch couple is there. They had planned to go further, but were tuckered out and decided to spend the night also. A bit later we were joined by 12 members of El Bolson high school handball team and their 2 coaches, who had climbed as a team exercise. The kids were just great. We beat them climbing the hill, but while we relaxed and took off our boots, they went back outside and chased each other around the forest. All 19 of us bedded down in the loft that night, and slept very well.
Next morning ( Martes, 11/11) we started up the trail alone. Handball Team went back to Bolson. Dutch team went surged ahead again. The first 2 hours was almost too much. Had to scramble up steep, slippery. CT used poles, clung to roots, couple of times SC had to double back to carry her pack up areas that were extreme, ( but only a COUPLE times, and they were short areas !!) Near the top we broke into flatter trail that crossed amazing snow fields, just follow the footprints, sun is brilliant, views of the Andes are outstanding, it was cold enough that we didn´t posthole in the snow, skirting lakes still frozen, exotic ducks standing on the ice on one foot. We decided they were a new breed of alpine penguins.

We loose elevation, then have to regain it as we cross a ridge, then loose it very shrapely. Have these people never heard of switchbacks ? We finally get down to the next major river and it is the most beautiful shade of green/blue/ deep azul, flowing straight out of the peaks, can see the trout just below the surface. SC eyes them longingly. CT offers him bent safety pin, dental floss, trekking pole but he demurs. Trail contines along the wild river, now we have to climb up and down rustic pole ladders. But finally come to Refugio Cajon del Azul. This is a lovely rustic structure, built by a man named Atilio over the past 28 years. He raised his family here, has a garden, sheep, chickens, campground next to the house. He says he can get up to 200 people a day in the peak season Dec/Jan. But tonight there are only 7 of us. He serves up an incredible meal of steak Milanesa, green salad right out of the garden, fresh baked bread and quince jam. Great conversation, then CT and SC spread their sleeping bags outside on a pile of saw dust. The moon is almost full, and our sleeping bags plus all our clothes keep us warm enough. Plus we save 24 peso each ( 8$).
Next day, we start the hike home. It should be all downhill, but somehow isn´t. More suspension bridge crossings, more dicey than before, as the valley comes into view. Altogether we hiked at least 7-8 hrs a day. Some of the toughest stuff either of us has done, but well worth the effort. Saw nobody near our age at all. This route is popular with Israeli military and British fitness instructors, but that´s another story.
At hike´s end we get to a rural intersection where we could call for a taxi from town while we down a beer , but CT thinks it would be more authentic, or something, to hike another hour to catch the local bus. She doesn´t know that it will be another uphill trek, and the bus, after we get it , traverses the countryside for 1 1/2 hours before returning to El Bolson ( about 15 minutes by taxi). SC eventually forgives her.

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